It’s a little the same with the overall vibration setting too. You can tweak away with the balance between the different forces that will define the way the wheel will pull, and then almost damp them down with the overall force setting. When it comes to the force and effects, the defaults are way too weak, but that doesn’t mean you’ll need to ramp the WRC 9 wheel settings right up to the max. Both the left and right are effectively the same, add some sensitivity and a bit of deadzone, but with the invert option being there for the left due to the way the settings work, we’ve put both setups below. Without adjustment it seems to be both too sluggish yet prone to flipping the tail out… not a good combo to keep things under control. The steering was where we had the biggest issues in the game though. No issues with the first two, leave the accelerator and brakes on the defaults unless you’re desperate to change the saturation. We did calibrate the wheel and pedals first, so make sure you do that before making these adjustments.įirst up for the WRC 9 wheel settings was the throttle, brakes and steering. To help you get somewhere near a drive-able car we’re sharing what we used for the Logitech G29 that gave us some degree of confidence for hurtling down tight, twisty tracks. Who are we kidding? It’s a lesson in patience as you try and work out what to set the sliders to and what impact each has. If you’ve read our review, you’ll know that the handling in the new game isn’t quite as easy to get to grips with on the defaults and the WRC 9 wheel settings need some tweaking.
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